Cut wide on purpose — the shape does the work, not the seams.

Empire-line dresses are sold as the easy option for a fuller figure and then get the one measurement that matters wrong. The gathered seam is drafted for a smaller bust, so it lands on the bust rather than under it, and the skirt ends up falling from the fullest point and pushing straight out. A deep V with no structure at its edges spreads sideways as you move, and it keeps spreading through the day. Balloon sleeves finish in an elastic cuff cut for a narrow forearm, which digs in and leaves a mark by lunchtime.

The Jessenia is drafted wide from the start and its seam sits low, clearly below the bust line, so the tiered skirt drops from beneath the bust instead of from its widest point. Two woven contrast bands run the full depth of the V and act as a firm border on either side of the opening, which is what stops it spreading. The sleeve stays full over the whole upper arm and elbow and only gathers right at the end, into a soft narrow cuff.

Why it works

• Gathered seam set below the bust: the skirt falls from under the bust rather than from its fullest point, so the volume drops straight down
• Woven contrast bands down the V: a firm edge on both sides of the opening keeps the neckline from spreading as you move
• Full-length balloon sleeve: wide over the whole upper arm and elbow, gathering only at the narrow cuff, so nothing binds at the widest part
• Tiered gathered skirt: the fullness is distributed all the way round rather than concentrated at the front
• Raw frayed hem: no heavy turned hem pulling the fabric in at the bottom edge
• Open, loosely woven cloth: light and breathable in heat, with the trade-off noted below

Fit note

This is an oversized shape and it is meant to be — there is no waist and nothing to cinch. Your usual size is normally right; sizing up adds width everywhere, including across the shoulders and through the sleeves. Be aware that the weave is genuinely open and the ground colour is pale, so it reads sheer in direct sunlight; a slip underneath changes the dress completely if you want the coverage. The neon pattern is woven into the cloth rather than printed on the surface, so it does not sit on top of the fabric and will not crack or peel. Midi length, sitting around mid-calf, with a raw unfinished hem that softens further with washing. Sizes M to 4XL.